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Few restaurants can boast the longtime popularity of Le Vallauris. Fewer still can evolve from classic to au courant French-Mediterranean cuisine without missing a beat, but “Le Val” has whistled a song of success since its founding in 1974 by Paul Bruggemans, the maestro and genial host who directs all the segues in this symphony of fine dining.

Set in a historic landmark estate, ‘Le Val’ dining rooms encircle a climate-controlled, centerpiece patio, sun-dappled by day, fairy-lit at night beneath a canopy of ficus trees — a romantic atmosphere hauntingly similar to the South of France. Zagat Guide says it “still is the gold standard in the desert, hitting the trifecta as No. 1 for food, décor, and service.”

Yet Bruggemans and executive chef Jean Paul Lair don’t rest on such laurels. They assimilate food trends and refresh the traditional menu without losing continuity. A Perigord Grade ‘A’ Duck Foie Gras sautéed with Bartlett pear, reduction of white balsamic vinegar and white Port wine competes with House-Smoked Salmon on the appetizer menu. New this season are a prix fixe early dining menu and a menu of seasonally changing “small plates” in the piano bar.

“The level of dining sophistication in the Coachella Valley has soared to new heights, and we will try to keep it stellar.”

Text by Sharon Apfelbaum