gastrognome idyllwild

Talking Big About ‘Gnome’

Far from diminutive, Restaurant Gastrognome remains a popular eating spot in Idyllwild for upcoming Jazz in the Pines.

Julie Pendray Restaurants

gastrognome idyllwild
Thai Beef Salad is one of the few new items on the menu, which remains wildly popular.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF RESTAURANT GASTROGNOME

Known affectionately as the “Gnome” by Idyllwild residents, Restaurant Gastrognome has proven to be more than just a cute nickname for 43 years.

Consistently ranked No. 1 among Idyllwild eateries by Trip Advisor, Restaurant Gastrognome is expected to be a popular draw for this weekend’s Jazz in the Pines (Aug. 19-21).

Read our Jazz in the Pines preview: Peak Performance

“It’ll be a very busy weekend,” says Edmund Yang, who took ownership in February. “We’ll be offering our regular menu.”

Australian lobster, rainbow trout, Macademia nut halibut, rack of New Zealand lamb, asparagus and Portabello mushroom pasta, filet mignon, chicken cordon bleu and deliciously creative salads and soups are among the offerings.

Restaurant Gastrognome will provide its usual ambience of recorded classical music to allow for quiet conversation.

Consistency, quality food, well-trained staff and the downtown location make the Gnome popular for visitors who come for a balmy night on the patio or a cozy chat in a corner of the spacious dining room. Though some Idyllwild restaurants offer live music, especially during jazz weekend, Gastrognome will provide its usual ambience of recorded classical music at the perfect level. “Our diners prefer quiet conversation,” Yang says.

In the main dining room, a large wood fireplace is the centerpiece in summer and a welcoming glow in winter. Secluded nooks behind etched glass support private tête-à-têtes. For a less formal atmosphere, guests can migrate to the small cafe, where tables surround a warm wood stove.

Yang is a Beijing native, with training in Swiss, French and Italian cuisine. He moved to Canada in 1996 and was executive chef at the Hyatt Regency in Vancouver. He also managed a food court in a shopping center and owned an eatery on Vancouver Island. Later, in California, he owned a Canton restaurant in Riverside.

He has added Thai beef salad, beef stir fry, and sandwiches such as grilled jalapeño and ham to the Gnome’s menu. Othewise, it’s business as usual and that’s just fine with him.

“Why change? It’s already successful,” he says. “It’s one of the longest successful businesses in town. We make it simple but elegant.”

Chef Humberto TIacomulco is still there, Regina Caron has been tending the full-service bar for 25 years, and the staff has been trained by prior owners Lanny and Jane Wagstaff, who have retired.

Owner Edmund Yang

One frequent visitor to the mountain, Dick Eiden of Vista, says, “Idyllwild is our favorite get-away, and we always eat at Gastrognome. The menu has great variety, and the food is always fresh, delicious and reasonably priced. Our favorite thing is eating on the patio, a good place to watch families walking downtown and visiting Idyllwild’s famous totem pole.”

Restaurant Gastrognome, 54831 Ridge View Drive, Idyllwild, Calif., 951-659-5055; www.gastrognome.com